Nesting Box Herbs - Chicken Aromatherapy

Presumably you have been following my blog and have already decided to grow the chickens their own herb garden this spring in order to brew herbal tea for them. Well, here's another way to put the herbs and flowers to good use - in your nesting boxes. 

Culinary herbs and edible flowers have amazing health and well-being benefits...and also provide a bit of aromatherapy for your chickens.

My coop never smelled so good until I started adding an herbal blend that includes mint, basil, lemon balm, thyme, oregano, bee balm, lavender, marigold and rose petals. 

The first time I put the herbs into the nesting boxes, one of my hens actually fell asleep after laying her egg. Now that's one relaxed hen !

Fresh or dried herbs in your nesting boxes not only work as insecticides, but also have anti-bacterial properties, and can act as natural wormers, anti-parasitics, insecticides, rodent control, stress relievers and laying stimulants. 

They will help a laying hen feel safe and relaxed while she is sitting, and calm a broody hen, as well as repel rodents, flies and other parasites. Broodies have a tendency to get mites and other bugs since they don't get out to dust bathe often, if at all, and the warm, dark space underneath them is a breeding ground for parasites. The herbs safely and naturally avoid that.

Plus the herbs and rose petals look so pretty !

Research has shown that wild birds will line their nests with fresh herbs and flowers, especially those that contain essential oils. The newly hatched baby birds benefit by rubbing against these herbs in the first few days of life. Same applies to baby chicks and ducklings. The herbs will benefit your newly hatched chicks by imparting lots of protection from parasites, as well as when they eat them garner the chicks even more health benefits. 

Here is a partial list of common herbs and flowers and their beneficial properties:

~photo courtesy the Wooden Hive etsy shop~

Basil - antibacterial, mucus membrane health

Catnip - sedative, insecticide

Bee Balm (bergamot/monarda)- antiseptic, antibacterial, respiratory health, calming

Cilantro - antioxidant, fungicide, builds strong bones, high in Vitamin A for vision and Vitamin K for blood clotting

Dandelion greens - immune system stimulant

Dill - antioxidant, relaxant, respiratory health

Echinacea - immune system strengthener, disinfectant, wound healing properties

Fennel -laying stimulant

Garlic - laying stimulant

Lavender - stress reliever, increases blood circulation, highly aromatic, insecticide

Lemon Balm - stress reliever, antibacterial, highly aromatic, rodent repellent

Marigold - produces vibrant orange yolks, insect repellent

Marjoram - laying stimulant

Mint (all kinds) - insecticide and rodent repellent

Nasturtium - laying stimulant, antiseptic, antibiotic, insecticide, wormer

Oregano - combats coccidia, salmonella, infectious bronchitis, avian flue, blackhead and e-coli

Parsley - high in vitamins, aids in blood vessel development, laying stimulant

Peppermint - anti-parasitic, insecticide

Pineapple Sage - aids nervous system, highly aromatic

Rose Petals - highly aromatic, high in Vitamin C

Rosemary - pain relief, respiratory health, insecticide

Sage - antioxidant, anti-parasitic, general health promoter

Spearmint - antiseptic, insecticide, stimulates nerve, brain and blood functions

Tarragon - antioxidant

Thyme - respiratory health, antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-parasitic

Yarrow - antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, wound healer, clears sinuses and respiratory systems, stress reliever

WARNING: Pennyroyal, although part of the mint family, should never be used. The oil is toxic to chickens and it causes uterine muscles to contract in humans, so best to stay away from using Pennyroyal in and around the nesting boxes.

Toss a few handfuls of mixed cut herbs into your nesting boxes and refresh them as needed. Your chickens will benefit from them and you will enjoy how nice your coop smells.

I plant various different types of herbs each spring because of their many uses. In addition to using the herbs for teas and in the nesting boxes, I also enjoy cooking with fresh herbs.  I order my herbs from Tasteful Garden. They are an organic company and I always receive beautiful plants.

There's nothing like going out to the garden and picking a handful of fresh basil for pesto, oregano for homemade pizza or mint to garnish a slice of cheesecake. Herbs are easy to grow, do well in most areas of the country and can even be grown on your kitchen windowsill in the winter.

I also dry excess herbs at the end of the summer to use in the nesting boxes during the winter - as well as to cook with.

I hope this has given you some more ideas for raising happy, healthy hens....Happy Growing ! 

This is the article written by Susan Burek, noted herbalist and owner of Moonlight Mile Farm, that first started me on the path to holistic chicken keeping. It really is a thought-provoking and informative, well researched article.

http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/issues/5/5-2/herbs_for_spring_eggs_and_breeding.html

If you don't grow herbs of your own, you can buy a set of three herbal sachets HERE.

Other Buying Sources:

  

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Basic Baby Chick Care

So...you've done your research into how many chickens you are allowed in your area, you've chosen the breeds you want to raise, maybe even placed your order for day old chicks due in the spring or checked with your local feed store about when chicks will be available.  Now what?

Creme Brulee Three Ways

A creme brulee recipe was first published in François Massialot's cookbook,“Cuisinier Roial et Bourgeois” (Royal and Borgeoise Cooking) in 1691 and literally means 'burnt cream'. This classic dessert is one of my favorites and often appears on restaurant dessert menus, but it's easy to make at home - and made at home with fresh eggs rivals any that I have had at any restaurant.

Here is the classic recipe and also two delicious variations:  coffee-brandy and bananas foster.  All three recipes use the same basic recipe and techniques.   A handheld kitchen torch makes the bruleeing easier, but you can also broil your custards in the oven if you don't have a torch.

 Classic Creme Brulee

(makes 2)

1-1/2 Cups Heavy Cream

1/4 Cup Granulated Sugar

4 Egg Yolks, whisked to blend

1 teaspoon Vanilla Bean Paste

2 T Brown Sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place two 3/4-Cup round or oval ramekins in a baking pan and set aside.  Heat water to a boil in a teakettle. Combine cream and granulated sugar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves.  Remove from heat and gradually whisk in egg yolks and vanilla.  Strain and divide into the ramekins.  Pour enough boiling water into pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 30 minutes (centers will move slightly when gently shaken). Carefully remove ramekins from water bath, cool, then cover with plastic wrap and chill for three hours or overnight.  

 

When ready to serve, pat a thin layer of brown sugar over top, then broil or torch until sugar melts and bubbles. 

  Let cool just until topping hardens and serve.

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Coffee Brandy Creme Brulee 

(makes 2)

1-1/2 Cups Heavy Cream

2T Granulated Sugar

1/2 teaspoon instant coffee crystals

4 Egg Yolks, whisked to blend

1 teaspoon brandy

1/4 teaspoon Vanilla Bean Paste

2 T Brown Sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place two 3/4-Cup round or oval ramekins in a baking pan and set aside.  Heat water to a boil in a teakettle. Combine cream and granulated sugar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves.  Remove from heat, add coffee and gradually whisk in egg yolks, brandy and vanilla.  Strain and divide into the ramekins.  Pour enough boiling water into pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 30 minutes (centers will move slightly when gently shaken). Carefully remove ramekins from water bath, cool, then cover with plastic wrap and chill for three hours or overnight.  

When ready to serve, pat a thin layer of brown sugar over top, then broil or torch until sugar melts and bubbles.  Let cool just until topping hardens and serve.

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Bananas Foster Creme Brulee

(makes 2)

1-1/2 Cups Heavy Cream

2T Granulated Sugar

4 Egg Yolks, whisked to blend

1/4 teaspoon Vanilla Bean Paste

2 teaspons Dark Rum

1 teaspoon Banana Liqueur

1 small  Banana, thinly sliced

2T Brown Sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place two 3/4-Cup round or oval ramekins in a baking pan and set aside.  Heat water to a boil in a teakettle. Combine cream, milk and 2T granulated sugar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves.  Remove from heat and gradually whisk in egg yolks, vanilla, rum and banana liqueur.  Strain and divide into the ramekins.  Pour enough boiling water into pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake for 30 minutes (centers will move slightly when gently shaken). Carefully remove ramekins from water bath, cool, then cover with plastic wrap and chill for three hours or overnight.  

When ready to serve, remove ramekins from refrigerator and let stand for 20 minutes.  Arrange banana slices over custard.  

Pat a thin layer of brown sugar over top, then broil or torch until sugar melts and bubbles.  Let cool just until topping hardens and serve.

~Recipes adapted from Bon Appetit magazine~

This post is featured at Katie's French Language Cafe.
Shared with: Walking on Sunshine, Mandatory Mooch,  

So You've Got a Broody Hen

A broody hen can be a godsend if you are trying to hatch chicks.  No worries about incubators, brooder boxes or heat lamps...the hen will take care of it all.  

However, if none of your eggs are fertile, or you aren't interested in hatching any chicks, a broody hen is not something you want.  Not only do broody hens stop laying eggs and pluck out their breast feathers, they only leave the nest for short periods of time to eat and drink a bit (but not nearly as much as they really need, resulting in weight loss and possible malnutrition), they also make it difficult for the other hens to lay their eggs by hogging the nest. Other hens may start pecking at the broody trying to get her to leave the nest, which can not only injure her, but lead to cannibalism.  Also, she might be bullied once she returns to the flock since she has been absent for several weeks.

   

Broodiness is also 'contagious' to some extent and one broody can induce others to go broody.  I guess kind of like women who work or live together who's menstrual cycles start to coincide with each other. Hormones can be tricky like that!

Broody hens also have a greater chance at contracting mites and other parasites, although using herbs in the nesting boxes can alleviate the parasite concern to a great extent.  Bottom line, tho, it is far healthier for a hen to be out 'being a chicken', scratching for bugs, dust bathing, and socializing with the others than sitting on an empty nest.

In the past several days it seems that Annie, one of our australorps, has gone broody.  Although the broodiness has for the most part been bred out of today's breeds, some breeds tend more towards broodiness, including Buffs, Cochins, Australorps, Partridge Rocks, Buff Rocks, Speckled Sussex, Dark Cornish, Columbian Wyandottes, Light Brahmas as well as Silkies.  

My first clue was that every time I went to collect eggs, she was sitting on a nest. 

When I opened the box, she puffed up and growled at me.  She also clucked a deep, throaty cluck (that is the 'voice' she will use to call her chicks). Some broodies will also peck at your hand when you try and take the eggs, so a pair of gloves is a must.   

The next clue was the black feathers I found in one of the nesting boxes with some eggs on one of the rare occasions when she wasn't sitting. 

A broody hen will literally 'feather the nest' and start pulling out her breast feathers and depositing them in the nesting box. She does this both to cushion the eggs and because her bare skin will keep the eggs (and  chicks once they hatch) warmer being right up next to her.  Sure enough, Annie has plucked her breast nearly clean. 

The Verdict: Annie is broody.

Once you have had one broody hen, you will immediately recognize when the next one goes broody.  The signs are pretty unmistakable.

Alas, our eggs are not fertile, and although I would like to try hatching eggs someday, I'm not ready quite yet, so Annie needs to be broken of her broodiness.  If a hen isn't sitting on fertile eggs, it's not healthy for her to sit all day in the dark nesting box, although that is what her maternal hormones are telling her to do.

But she needs to be outside getting exercise and fresh air, and 'being a chicken'. Also, a broody hen will stop laying eggs when she goes broody, and won't start up again, possibly for several months - the 21 days it takes for eggs to hatch plus the time she would spend caring for her new chicks - so it's in BOTH your best interests to break them as quickly as possible.

The key to breaking a broody hen is to cool under her abdomen and vent area. It is the elevated temperature in part that signals to her hormones to sit.  Here's are some suggestions to break a broody hen:

- Collect the eggs as quickly as possible from her her, as many times a day as possible

- Remove the broody hen from the nest and deposit her at the far end of the run, preferably where you have scattered treats to distract her, as many times a day as you can

- Block the nest that she has chosen to sit in

-Put a frozen water bottle in the nest

-As an alternative, take all the nesting material out of the box she has chosen. Most broodies have picked a specific nest and if you move them to another one, many will give up on setting. (alternatively if you are TRYING to hatch chicks, don't move the broody or the eggs until the chicks have hatched if possible)

- In extreme cases, close up the coop after the other hens have finished laying so she has no access

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 After a few days of this, I have found the broody hen starts getting really annoyed with me but realizes that I am more stubborn than she is - and besides it's a lot more fun to be outside with the others than sitting alone on an empty nesting box - and she gives up.

More drastic measures I have read but never tried include putting ice cubes under her or putting her in a raised metal cage or dog crate with no bedding for a few days with feed and water, but I have never had to go that far to dissuade a broody hen.  

Part of the reason a hen goes (and stays) broody is a warm vent, nature's way of timing most chicks to be born in the warm months - there's a reason you rarely have a broody hen in the winter - as well as an increase in hormones, so part of breaking her broodiness has to include cooling off her vent and abdomen area and getting air to circulate under her.

This time, it took three days for Annie to decide she was done trying to be more persistent than I am.

Sorry Annie, maybe someday...

If you want to try hatching some eggs under a broody...keep reading HERE....